This romantic Greek fishing village will capture your heart!
You may also here it referred to by its old, Slavic name of Selenitsa. It is truly a living village with few tourists. There is nothing much to do - life is slow and peaceful. Everyone knows everyone else and most are related to others in the village.
Language is not a problem as most Greeks have English as their second language. Road signs are also in both Greek and Roman letters.
As a nod to the modern world there is a coffee shop near the house with free wireless access and an Internet Cafe.
GETTING ABOUT If you prefer not to have a car, it certainly is not essential. There is a local bus travelling through to the nearest main town of Kalamata every day. It passes through various villages and will drop you off near other beaches in the immediate vicinity, including Kardamili (Ritsa), Kalogria and Stoupa.
A bicycle hire shop enables one to reach out of the way places that the bus does not reach including the sleepy village of Trahila along the coast where you might buy fresh sea salt.
It is a flat ride, or walk, 1km, to the nearest sand beach of Pantazi with umbrellas and beds (for hire) a cafe and a taverna.
There are also organised trips running from the village or from nearby Kardamili to ancient sites, such as Olympia or Ancient Messini or you may take a private taxi, which is reasonable.
EATING OUT There are half a dozen good tavernas. Some serve fish which has been caught by the owner that day. You may still ask to see your fish before they cook it and don't be surprised to find the Fish in the freezer - the high daytime temperatures mean this is the only way to keep that day's catch really fresh. Tuna and swordfish is found in the area, as are large prawns, hunter fish (kinigos), octopus, squid and scorpion fish (makes fantastic fish soup). You will also find excellent sardines and the smaller atherina, marides and gavros (like whitebait or anchovies) in season.
For the meat eaters there is the ubiquitous chicken, but usually from their own yard and tasting nothing like supermarket meat - tiny lamb chops, rabbit or pork dishes - if you are lucky, lean and succulent goat may also delight the palate.
Vegetarians too will find a good range of dishes from which to choose, using local cheeses and fresh vegetables, usually homegrown. Spinach, wild greens (especially delicious vleeta), aubergines, courgettes and their delicious flowers as well as vegetarian moussakas. In season, artichokes with peas, black-eyed beans and a spinach and rice dish flavoured with dill (spanakorizo) are personal favourites.
SWIMMING and BEACHES in the village, swimming is either from rocks and ladder into deep water just below the tavernas of Vesuvius or Faros or in the old harbour (see photo in 'Views' link) where a small area has been cemented over for sun or shade bathing and again access to the water is down a ladder into deep water. The welcome at Vesuvios is always second to none and there is a freshwater shower there (Easter to October) should you decide to stay for lunch. Swimming below Faros taverna gives you the opportunity to use their sunbeds and umbrellas (free) and partake of fresh orange juice, coffee or a cold beer.
The nearest beach is at PANTAZI. It is only a 10-15 minute flat walk (or take a bike) through the other side of the village. Here you will find a small coffee bar under the shade of Tamarisk trees, there are umbrellas and sunbeds for hire on the gritty sand beach and the excellent Calliope's Taverna, on the far side of the rocks, where you may take a snack or just a cold drink whilst watching the sun go down. Calliope's also serve more substantial meals for lunch or dinner.
Other beaches nearby, ranging from stony to soft sand (Kalogria), are Stoupa, Kalogria, Delphinia and Foneas, as well as Ritsa in Kardamili. [Fantastic taverna Elies here for lunch only.]
OTHER THINGS TO DO NEARBY
Walking, either organised or alone, on well-marked paths in the mountains. Pedalloe and Boat hire in Stoupa. Beach volleyball in Kalogria. Yoga, twice per week at the Spirit of Life nearby. Cycling. Yacht hire in Kalamata.
Trips to Ancient sites - Olympia, Messini, Mystras, Diros Caves - either with a local agent in Kardamili or by taxi. Follow the "Ancient Sites" link on the top left of this page for more information
